Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Trichromy - little fun assignment


I wanted to follow up with the trichromy images that I showed you in class on Monday.  Depending of whether you have any background using PS or other image editors, you may find it tricky to complete, so it won't be officially assigned until later when you have had some time to become more familiar with technical aspects of editing photos. It's going to be a 'floating assignment' in that it you will need to do it eventually, but it isn't due for quite some time. That being said, I'm confident that a number of you are quite familiar with PS and similar apps and could follow these instructions very easily. So, if you are feeling ambitious or have some extra time, feel free to go for it now.

French write-up with some really nice examples of the trichromy process.

Article translated into English using Google Translate

One clever aspect of some of his images are that he isn't using a tripod, so the images are a little bit off as well which results in color fringing throughout the image. He could easily 'register' the images in an image editor, but I assume he likes the look (so do I).



Below is a really nice use of the process. Image is by Flickr user Budzillab.


Even though this assignment is based on a technical/creative technique, I still want them to be great images. Please take some time and make a really strong image.



Background
Some of the earliest color photos were taken and exhibited before the advent of color film materials. Prokudin-Gorskii was one such photographer. The Library of Congress has an excellent website dedicated to his work which explains the process that he used. Eseentially, he would take one photo for the Red light, one for the Blue, and one for the Green using black and white film. Then he would project the resulting images from three different projectors one each for Red, Green, and Blue. This would reconstitute a full color image. This is not to dissimilar from how most digital cameras record color (more on that at another time).

Trichromy via Multiple RGB Exposures
You can get a similar effect by taking three separate exposures on the same piece of color film using a red, green, and blue (the primary additive colors) filters respectively. If you are shooting digitally, you can achieve the same effect by taking one channel from each image (red, green, blue) and combining them into a new image. The trick is that have to use a tripod to take three photos of a scene in which part of it has movement and part of it does not (or not depending on the look that you want). The trick is that you have to pre-visualize how the resulting image will look once composited.

How to combine the channels into one composite image
In order to combine them into one as shown above, you first edit one of them using Camera Raw (assumes you captured your images as RAW files). Then synchronize all three images. Then take one of the images, select the Red channel, right click it, select Duplicate Channel, Create New, name it Red. The basically do the same for the other two channels, taking the Green from one image and the Blue from another. These new images will be in a weird Multichannel Mode. Go to Image > Mode and change the mode to Grayscale for each of them. Save each of the three files to the same directory as TIFFs (I don't think that you have to do this, but it is a good idea should something go wrong). Then, go to one of the grayscale files, let's say Red. Make sure the other files are also open so you should have three files open now, one named Red, one named Green, and one named Blue. Select one of the images. Go to the Channels Palette. Hit the little hidden menu icon in the corner to revel the drop down menu. Select Merge Channels. Then select RGB Mode. Make sure it is set to 3 colors. Then hit OK. It should automatically list the three channels that will make up the color version. Make sure all 3 channels are indicated in the correct order. This will then give you full color image. Are that didn't move should look normal and those parts that moved will have different colors to them.
NOTE: You will get a slightly different look by changing the images from which you took the respective primary color from. That is to say, you can take the Red, Green, and Blue channels from a different one of the original color images. This will result in the colors being different.

Putting together a Trichromy image using GIMP

Similar thread about free programs that can do this...

Here is a tutorial which pretty much ends up with the same results, but goes about it differently. The article refers it as being a Harris Shutter Effect. This process is really more like early color photography than a Harris Shutter as it requires three exposures; one through each of the primary additive colors: Red, Green, and Blue. A Harris shutter is used during a single exposure. It's goal isn't to create a normal looking image, rather to create a full color image with some funky color fringing. Here is a write up on creating a real Harris Shutter.

Have fun with this assignment!

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Importance of editing your photos before uploading them to 123D Catch

You must edit your photos to the absolute best of your abilities before uploading them to 123D Catch. If you don't your model isn't going to go together well or possibly at all.
That is why I taught you to edit the images before uploading them.
Pay particular attention that you shadows have detail. If there isn't any detail in the shadows, then 123D Catch can't find shared points to match up the images.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

What's due on Tuesday the 22nd

You should have a successful model in 123D Catch. You should have it cleaned up as much as possible in there.
Save the Mesh Package.

Many of you will be further along and have your model cleaned up in PS. Great!

We will cover the next steps in class.


Wednesday, January 16, 2013

3D painting and editing of textures in PS6

Fantastic article about using the 3D features of Photoshop.

Getting started with Photoshop 3D Great video about painting textures in PS. How to clean up/improve the texture of imported models.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Paper Photo Sculpture information

Project 1: Photo Sculpture

Pepakura Settings:
I will be printing to a 17" printer using a 16" roll of paper. I have found that 16x16" pieces of paper are manageable. Additionally, it makes the math easy. Pepakura using mm throughout, so you will have to convert to inches if necessary. 16" = 406.4mm. Pepakura doesn't accept fraction numbers, so I just use 406mm.
Change line-weight to 1.
Change both side margins to 5mm
Set bitmap resolution to Very High

Under the 3D menu, turn on Page numbers and Edge ID

Under Settings > Other Settings > you can change the size of the edge id numbers. By selecting the Place edge ID inside of face, it will place the numbers outside of the image part of your piece. Hopefully, the line up on the tabs. No guarantees though.




Krista Hoefle makes full scale figures from paper. She used Pepakura for some of her work. Here other work is pretty cool as well.

Collection of nice papercraft

Singapore University project in which they upcycle materials into 3D models

 WebUrbanist collection of nice papercraft

Eric Testroete has a neat paper head 
This photogallery reveals his process

Papercraft Museum - self explanatory, also has some good information there

Forum Thread about a guy making a full scale paper outfit

Osang Gwon's photo sculptures

Pepakura

A guy's tutorial on creating a large head

Erik's Models has some good resources to get starting making your own paper models

Blog dedicated to Papercraft using Pepakura. He offers lots of free model files. 

Bert Simons papersculpture


Nice collection of images of Bert Simons paper sculptures.

How to reduce the poly count using Blender 

I suggest that you use the built in tools within the installed PC version of the application to clean up your mesh as much as possible before downloading it to clean up more on another program. The only exception to this may be the cutting of excess materials near the edge.

Great video demonstrating how to clean up a 123D Catch model using Blender


Below, you will see how turning on the Shadeless option allows you to fully see all the textures in the model.




Best video on how to reduce your poly count in Blender! Only 23 minutes long!! He is actually reducing the polys from a 123D Catch just has you have done.

Kind of a complicated way to reduce the poly count in Blender

Example video of reduced 123D model using Blender

3d Photo references and downloadable textures 

Review of Looxis Faceworx as well as a link to download the program

How to use Looxis Faceworx


Watch this video on Pepakura Unfolding - you may want to watch Part II of this series as well
Nice video which serves to introduce you to Pepakura:


Texture model from photographs
Great video showing how it's done using ZBrush


Similar video




Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Welcome to class!

This blog will serve as a resource to you throughout the semester. The syllabus, assignments, and numerous other materials will be posted here. I will post course re-caps here from time to time.

It is but one of the numerous online resources that you will be utilizing throughout the course. The photo sharing site Flickr is another such resource. Below, you will find a video describing how Flickr was used in a similar fashion elsewhere.






UT Alerts

Please sign up for UT Alerts. You will then receive text messages and emails when school is delayed or cancelled. You will also receive a message about any emergency that may arise.